I've waited weeks on tenterhooks for the first fresh cherries to arrive
to market, but in the meantime chose to console myself with a clutch of
glowingly golden
apricots. I had ulterior
motives. We'd also been eagerly awaiting the birth of our third nephew,
Oliver, who at the time of writing this article was slightly overdue,
and I figured a little light folk medicine couldn't hurt. Elizabethan
England held the belief that
apricots induced
labor, which is why they feature in the play
The Duchess of Malfi, where
her nefarious brothers expose her pregnancy with a slyly offered bowl
of
apricots. It has no basis in science whatsoever, but might as well be worth a try. To gussy up the presentation, I decided to toss the
apricots with fresh ginger, then layer them into a tart mantled in slivered
almonds.
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For your viewing pleasure
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Apricots are like small peaches or plums, with a
delicate flavor that can range from tart to sweet. Their flavor
intensifies significantly when dried, but note the jewel-toned ones are
treated with sulfur dioxide, muting their flavor in exchange for
brilliant aesthetics. A dark brown, sun-dried
apricot
may look like the devil, but it tempers the taste into a luscious bass.
Fresh, ripe specimens and their resulting preserves should be prized
for combining flavor and color that are refreshingly light. As
almonds and the various stone fruits (such as
apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches, and plums) are all inter-related, toasty
almonds are a natural flavor pairing. The zesty ginger root livens things up, lending peppery, aromatic pungency.
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In the process of being stoned |
The tart is an immortal and elegant delivery mechanism.
Apricots are not especially juicy, so a pillow of mascarpone and a robe of
apricot
preserves add extra moisture and softness for accompaniment. I used a
version of my mother's super-simple oil pastry crust recipe for a base
of rich crumbliness, here gaining extra silkiness from nature's
shortening: coconut oil. The resulting combination hits crisp, crunchy,
tender, melting, and succulently saucy textures that help carry the
flavor across the palate. It does require ample cooling time; if the
filling is hot it spills and flows everywhere.
Suspect birthing lore aside, the
apricot has
been
cultivated since 3000 BCE in Armenia. They're certainly a
healthier
Armenian import than the Kardashians, with high fiber and vitamins A
and C. Along with vitamin E from the
almonds,
the healthy fats of the coconut oil, and whole wheat flour, this isn't
the worst dessert that you could eat. For what it's worth, Oliver was
born within 24 hours of serving the tart. Anecdotal evidence is the bane
of scientists everywhere. Even without an expectant mother in your
life, this makes for a delicious way to highlight seasonal fruit.
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Delicioso |
Apricot almond ginger tart
This tart is sweet, tangy, and super easy. In the interests of gilding
the lily, non-pregnant diners would especially appreciate a garnish of
amaretto whipped cream. For a vegan alternative, replace the mascarpone
with
almond butter or cashew cream. Serves about 8.
2 c whole wheat flour
2 tbs turbinado sugar
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 c coconut oil, melted (immerse sealed jar in warm water)
6 tbs ice water
For the filling:
8 oz mascarpone cheese, softened
8 oz +2 oz
apricot preserves
About 8 fresh
apricots, stoned and quartered
1" fresh ginger root, peeled and minced
1/2 c
almonds, sliced and toasted, topping
Preheat the oven to 400 F.
Whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt in a large glass bowl.
Make a well in the ingredients and pour in the melted coconut oil.
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Crumbly |
Whisk gently while sprinkling in the ice water, a tablespoon at a time. The dough will form large crumbs.
Scrape the dough into a fluted tart pan with a removable bottom and use your hands to press it into the bottom and up the sides.
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Easy as pie |
Spread the mascarpone cheese in an even layer over the crust, then do the same with the first 8 ounces of
apricot preserves, and sprinkle the minced ginger on top.
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A vigorous stirring should yield readily spread preserves |
Arrange the quartered fresh
apricots over the tart, then brush with the remaining preserves.
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Ready for lift-off |
Bake for about 20 minutes, until bubbling and golden-brown, then remove from the oven to a wire rack, sprinkle with toasted
almonds, and allow to cool completely.
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Cheers! |
1 comment:
excellent column, and the recipe sounds delicious. Congratulations on the writing, the cooking, and the uncle-ing, all!
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